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fashion by Otto Kern, Pierre Cardin, Bench Street
Men 2011: classical, casual, funky, smart
Fashionoffice has previewed men's wear fall/winter 2011/12 already before the runway shows start in mid-January in Milan, Italy.
Three trends are presented on this page:
Classical men's wear re-interpreted as casual urban outfits
(Photos: red jacket with hood, man in jeans)
The German label Otto Kern presents for FW2011/12 down jackets in bright colors like the one on this page in fresh red. The jacket is tailored casually to the body. Otto Kern styles it with a red-white checked shirt and a comfortable grey pullover. For jeans, Otto Kern presents the classical 5-pocket denim with a stronger focus on the cut than on decorative elements.
Men's wear inspired by street art and music
(Photo: man with scarf)
The picture shows an outfit by the British label Bench Street, FW 2011/2012. Bench's designers are inspired for the collection by the themes street art, music and clubbing. The outfit on this page pays homage to the tribal/tattoo art and indie rock-scene.
The cord velvet jacket (photo right above) and the hooded jacket with fur (right below) are pieces from the fall/winter 2011/12 collection by the French label Pierre Cardin. The collection is characterized by 'understatement': the designs are elegant modern - almost unsuspicious, and surprise with 'inner values', which can be found as luxurious linings, new materials like jersey for tailored jackets, sustainable mixes of Australian cotton and wool, and 'Cash-Wool' (a mix of merino wool and cashmere) for knitwear.
13 February,2011 By Joe Weber
Finding stores that stock good looking, affordable men’s clothing is surprisingly difficult. We list some of our favorites, with specifics on what to look for at each.
The retail world isn’t geared towards men who want to dress well. It’s designed for women and for guys who just want to get in, buy something comfortable and plain, then leave before anyone recognizes them amongst the racks. If you’re the type of guy who enjoys looking his best and wants to do so without spending a thousand dollars every month at the mall, then you’re at a serious disadvantage. Having a plan and knowing precisely what kind, type, and color of clothing you’re setting out to buy is key, but knowing what stores are best for which items will save you an enormous amount of time. And every second not spent strolling by a food court or avoiding the suffocating scented cloud that rolls out the doors of Abercrombie and Fitch is time well spent.
This is the short list of retailers that’ll save you time, money, and in some cases… won’t even have you leaving your house.
What it’s good for: Suits, dress shirts, Levi’s, and sometimes jewelry for your significant other.
Macy’s is the bargain department store for guys who care about what they look like. Their house brand Alfani and the more athletic fitting Alfani RED can be a source for great dress basics. If you don’t have a ton of cash but need a suit? Wait for one of their Men’s Wardrobe Sales or monthly One Day sales. Shop then and you could find yourself paying less than $250 for an excellent Tommy Hilfiger Trim fit or Alfani RED suit, $15 for a tie, and $20 for a decent dress shirt. But beware the sales people. Sometimes they can be a little too attentive.2. Nordstrom
What it’s good for: Nice suits, great in-house brands, sweaters, splurges, and terrific sales
Nordstrom is like an upscale Macy’s. A quick glance at their brands (Hugo Boss, John Varvatos) and you can tell immediately that it’s going to cost more shopping there. But their in house brands are superb. Their more modern leaning house brands like Calibrate and 1901 offer quality and great fits at reasonable prices. Plus their Nordstrom Trim Fit dress shirts are extremely well put together. Nordstrom isn’t perpetually on sale like Macy’s, but when they do discount, it’s worth it.3. J. Crew
What it’s good for: Trim suits, chinos, some casual wear, and some bags
There’s no denying that J. Crew stuff looks good. But sometimes the prices on the items can get a little steep. Their Ludlow trim fit suits can look amazing, but you’ll pay for it. When J. Crew actually does go on sale the selection can often be weak. They’re outrageously popular and they’ve become a bit of a trend setter. And they know their power. For example, there’s not many other stores that can get away with selling a $200 Timex .4. Old Navy, Gap, & Banana Republic
What they’re good for: Jeans, sweaters, casual and dress blazers, casual shirts, and finding cheaper alternatives to J. Crew stuff.
They’re all owned by the same company and they each have specific target audiences. Old Navy goes after the bargain family shopper, Gap is the place for still stylish but still mostly affordable foundational pieces, and Banana Republic touts themselves as affordable luxury. Unlike Banana Republic, you can’t buy a suit at The Gap or Old Navy, but you can buy pretty well made blazers at all three. Yep, even at Old Navy. Just make sure to take them to your tailor when you’re done, and consider ear plugs for the shopping trip to keep the screaming kids from giving you a headache.5. J.Crew Factory
While you can find J.Crew Factory stores at outlet malls, don’t let that confuse you: Their wares aren’t old stock or slightly irregular. The Factory line from J.Crew is a whole separate frugal collection that is a great place for picking up everything from on-point trends for shirts and pants but also surprisingly decent quality sport coats and modern, slim fit suiting. They do play the price-high, sale-high game, so don’t ever pay full price. They regularly – like, multiple times per month – hold sales ranging from 40-70%.6. The Tie Bar 7. Amazon.com & Amazon Fashion
What they’re good for: Watches, shoes, CDs, and electronics
Amazon really is the world’s largest online marketplace. You could waste hours scrolling through what they offer, and their “related items” lists seem hell bent on making that scenario a reality. Amazon Fashion is similar, and more often than not their shoe selection seems to mirror each other. But sometimes the prices and shipping options are majorly different. Amazon Fashion usually offers free two day shipping even on top of big sales.
For buying watches, beware third party dealers who just use Amazon for their marketplace. Either buy direct from Amazon, make sure the purchsae is “fulfilled” by Amazon (meaning it’s stored in the Amazon warehouses and Amazon has put more of their reputation on the line)… or at the very least extensively check out their seller rating. Don’t waste your time looking for clothes on Amazon. It’s a chore.8. Bonobos
Bonobos was founded in 2007 to solve a singular problem: khaki pants that don’t make you look like a 50 year old man. While there are many slimmer options available today, at the time all chinos had a saggy butt, were too wide, and were all-around unflattering. Offered in several fits and a ton of colors, Bonobos offers pants in cotton, wool, linen, and more. They are more expensive than a similar pair from Old Navy, but the proof is in the quality. Bonobos also offers shirts and suiting decently priced for the quality.
Free shipping both ways and 365 day returns.
What it’s good for: Sweaters. narrow ties. slim fit basics like t-shirts, polos, and dress shirts, some suiting and blazers .
Target has always placed an emphasis on having a men’s line that’s more on trend than it’s discount retailer competitiors like Wal-Mart or K-Mart. They were the first to offer narrower ties at a price less than $20 when expensive designer ties started becoming narrower and more casual back in the day. They consistently have slim dress shirts and button ups in colors and patterns that form the basis of any solid wardrobe. In the cooler months, look for merino wool sweaters house brand Merona regularly available for less than $20. Also be on the lookout for their unstructured cotton blazers – the perfect way to dress up a casual outfit on the cheap.
What it’s good for: Outerwear, blazers, and decent clearance sales
Boden is a bit of a well kept secret. They’re based out of the U.K. they appear to have a conscience, and their models look so happy they could be intoxicated. In fact, they just might be a little tipsy. Beer and wine often show up in the pics, and when’s the last time you saw a couple of guys doing shots in a catalog? A lot of their stuff is extremely bright, and can get expensive quick. But their blazers and coats are reasonably priced and full of unique style you won’t find anywhere else.11. Zappos
What it’s good for: Shoes of all kinds and incredible customer service.
Amazon actually purchased Zappos a few years back (for almost a Billion dollars) but they still feel like separate entities. There once was a time when buying shoes online seemed beyond stupid. Don’t you have to try shoes on first? Not with Zappos. They carry… everything. Prices are pretty good too. The 360 views, videos of employees showing the shoes, and extremely kind shipping policies make these guys one of the best in the online retail business.12. Overstock.com
What it’s good for: Just checking before you click “buy” somewhere else
My current go-to Navy suit is a Kenneth Cole New York all wool number I bought off Overstock for… $110. I saw the exact same suit in Macy’s a few months earlier for somewhere north of $350. Their selection isn’t always the most current, nor is it the best place if you’re of an average build (sizes tend to run in the extreme)… but just check in every once in awhile if you’re in the market for a larger purchase.13. Indochino
What it’s good for: Custom suits
You’ve seen Indochino a few times here on Primer. And if you haven’t tried them, consider it. With their re-tailoring credit (up to $75) and money back guarantee… you could end up getting a custom fit suit that’s incredibly dialed in for around $300 – $400.14. Express
What it’s good for: The Express 1mx shirt, trim fit sweaters
After the age of 25 walking into an Express can make you grimace. The neon, the pounding music, the sales associates with more product in their hair than you’ve used in the last month. It’s a lot to handle. But the Express 1mx button up and the non logoed sweaters are worth it. Get on their physical mailing list and you’ll get coupons in the mail every month. Despite sometimes questionable quality, the Express 1mx basic button up shirt can be worn with just about anything. I’ve got four hanging in my closet and wear them all almost every week. It also comes in two fits, one of which is trim enough that you might not even have to get it tailored. The sweaters are decent, and won’t make you look 10 pounds heavier.
That should be a good start. Ten stores, some big department stores, some brick and mortar standards, a couple of online stalwarts, and a few surprises. Good luck. And may the clearance rack be filled with items in your size.
Want to know what to wear or sport in your wardrobe for 2011? We searched high and low, deep and wide to find you what trends and concepts are making their way into the male style lexicon au moment.Trend 1 – The Mo’bike Panache
Modern trends generally start for women before being modified to suit men’s tastes. The motorcycle trend, however, emerges into men’s wardrobes at the same time this year, roaring into everyday wear albeit it to a much smaller degree.
Spearheaded by a number of design houses, including Burberry and Calvin Klein , the main element of the men’s version of trend are statement jackets – unlike women’s where we’ve also seen a number of additional pieces. The colour palette is much muted as well: it’s all black, a fact that makes the trend rather cliche for men but not so cliche that the only motorcycle jackets on trend are Brando jackets.Trend 2 – Jewelry for Men
No longer just the choice of the metro-sexual, men’s jewelry has become a mainstream fashion statement. The luxury market took a beating in the down economy. No surprises there. But one segment has unexpectedly doubled since 2007: the men’s jewelry market. Spending on men’s jewelry now accounts for 20% of consumers’ high-end-jewelry expenditure. Men are buying jewelry to show they pay attention to their appearance. In this competitive work environment, it’s a necessity to stand out. In a way, men are returning to a time when royalty used jewelry to show their importance. It’s part of an ever evolving definition of masculinity.
What’s more, men are in most cases buying themselves the jewelry. Men’s jewelry is not a popular gift choice. So it’s not wives buying jewelry for their husbands. It’s men buying it because they like a piece and will spend close to $1,000 on a “statement piece” — like Bvlgari men’s ring designed by Anish Kapoor — and see it as an investment. The fastest-growing accessories, however, are bracelets and necklaces — up 23% and 21% respectively, from 2008. Cufflinks come in at No. 4.
Men can get themselves decked in gold, titanium, sterling silver, diamonds, CZ cubic zirconias and gemstones however for 2011, our hands down fav jewelry material is Stainless Steel. Versatile and long lasting, stainless steel is a great choice for men as it stands up to everyday wear well and its silver-grey colour matches perfectly with almost anything. For high end luxury jewelry look no further than Bvlgari, D&G Jewels. Tiffany & Co and even try the Simmons Jewelry Co. owned by rap mogul Russell Simmons. If your budget is tight, Macys, Bloomingdales, H&M and even JC Penney have a wide selection to suit any and every self respecting gent.Trend 3 – The Savvy Sexual
Not metro, not retro but Savvy Sexual
He’s not metro – that’s too feminine for most men. Neither is he a retrosexual, star of the buffoon beer ad. He’s part of the marginalised army of men who care about their appearance but still like to drink beer and watch sports. He’s an astute shopper, a sophisticated consumer with the Web research skills to give him an outsize say in family purchases. He purchases his own clothes, he shops at a store at least once a month, he googles
related men’s style information regularly (google searches results: up to 37,200,000 for men’s clothing and 550,000 for men’s suits and 3,350,000 for men’s shirts in 2010), per year he spends about $1,800 on eating out, $701 on “audio and visual equipment,” and $552 on alcohol.
Men are becoming increasingly savvy about their consumption. They have to. We’re living in times where traditional roles are blurring and men are now single for longer and so they shop for food, groceries, clothes on their own. They’re clever, budget conscious and style savvy.
The savvy sexual cannot be confused however with the metrosexual. He’s no high-maintenance manscaper, nor a beer-swilling jock. He just wants to feel better about the way he looks and smell, yet also maintain an overall sense of masculinity. He’s a man who equates good grooming…with success and confidence.
We predict that in 2011, the Savvy Sexual man will be the dude of the year. YEP! You heard it first, here at MenStylePower.com. If you think you’re a Savvy Sexual, tell us! We’d love to know what resources, information and tips we can continue to offer you on your journey to becoming the best man possible you can be!Trend 4 – Old World Glam, Old World Charm
In 2011, we’re kicking back. Waaaay back into the 1940s when gentlemanly charm, chivalry and substance was celebrated and expressed in finessed, highly taiolored clothing for men. Think top hats, velvet ‘smoking jackets’, kerchiefs and zoot suits.
The end of the Second World War saw the development of the style that is most often associated with the swing era. Clothes were full-cut again, with double-breasted, longer jackets and wider trousers. Shirts and coats came in a range of colors and hand-painted silk ties ran the range from elegant to exotic – featuring geometric designs or pin-up girls. Everyone wore a tie and through it, one could express one’s individuality. A man distinguished himself with his wide-brimmed, smart, strong, stylish hat – the fedora – worn by everyone from gangsters to businessmen and even President Roosevelt.
In 2011, menswear design houses like Ralph Lauren. Calvin Klein . Brioni and Yohji Yamamoto are turning back time, moving away from the traditional jeans market to tailored apparel and jaunty old world expression. Sometimes it takes a look back, to take a step forward.Trend 5 – The “Confidence” Cut Suit
As with all fashionable men’s suits for 2011 and 2012 it’s cut that’s about the male physique and the revival of classic suiting elements. Unlike the previous ‘sleek cut’ single breasted suit described, however, it features one additional key attribute: instead of a slim to medium notched lapel, 2011’s confidence suit cut is all about peaked lapels. In this regard, the suit cut sits as something of a 1930s and 1970s revival – back then peaked lapels were the only kind worth having. With its obvious appeal, the confidence cut is more than just a single breasted suit cut. When it comes to on-trend double breasted suits, it’s the dominant cut.Trend 6: Country Class
Fishing poles, picnics, hunting dogs, moist earth, forest glades and grassy patches. The tide is turning against the city boys, what with pollution, over stressed commuters, road rage and traffic woes it’s a relief to step out into the fresh, crisp air of the countryside and touch base with nature again.
In 2011, we urge you to flee the city, escape to the wild, explore the hunter, fisherman and equestrian in you and remember that while you’re on your country sojourn you’ll need the obligatory tweed jacket, gaberdine trousers, hiking boots or wellies and a pipe. Oh, and make sure you don’t leave home without your gilet (a specially crafted down and feather padded vest), your moleskins (Really? Moles died for a piece of clothing??), your cords and don’t be caught dead without your fleece jacket or check shirt. Check out ateliers like Dogwood London ( www.dogwoodlondon.co.uk) and Alexander James ( www.alexander-james.co.uk ).Trend 7: RED
2011 is all about reclaiming what was lost in the last few years and shaking off the angst of the GFC. What better colour to do it in than the one most often associated with power and passion. RED is a fierce and emotionally intense color, symbolizing speed, sexuality, and style. Fast cars are red. Beautiful women wear red clothes and red lipstick. Red is also the color of romance and love.
The Nature of Red: A stimulant, red is the hottest of the warm colours. Studies show that red can have a physical effect, increasing the rate of respiration and raising blood pressure.
Using Red: Use the color red to grab attention and to get people to take action. Use red when you don’t want to sink into the background. Use red to suggest speed combined with confidence and perhaps even a dash of danger. A little bit of red goes a long way. Small doses can often be more effective than large amounts of this strong color. Multiple shades of red and even pink or orange can combine for a cheerful palette. Cool blues provide contrast and tone down the heat of red. Add a dash of red to a soft but sophisticated pink and gray combo. Fashion experts always recommend at least a splash of red when dressing for a job interview or any other important meeting, because red symbolizes power, decisiveness and leadership.
Red is so intense a color that it doesn’t suit everyone and should be chosen with caution. But you know that MSP is all about encouraging men to live a daring life, so don’t hold back. In 2011, it’s RED all the way baby!!Trend 8: Eyewear if you dare
Out there, zany …
Did you know that the use of sunglasses started to become widespread in the early 1900s, when silver screen stars donned a pair of darkened spectacles NOT to avoid recognition by fans, but to protect their eyes from the powerful arc lamps used to light up Hollywood’s movie sets. Fans begun to imitate their favourite stars’ look and the phenomenon took off, persisting to today, long after the introduction of ultraviolet filters onset had eliminated this problem.”Aha!” you say. Aha indeed.
Today sunglasses are both functional and fashionable; helping to shield your eyes from harmful, cancerous rays sent by our evil sun and maintaining your ultra cool look while you do it. In 2011, we predict that the trendsetters will be sporting ever more ridiculous sunglasses. If you feel so led, please send (email: email@example.com) through a mug shot of yourself in an utterly zany pair and we may publish it on MSP.Trend 9: Slip-On Magic
Forget shoe laces boys. The relaxed post GFC atmos has meant that along with fuss free, minimalist living, we’re looking for less time consuming, more economical and clean detailed products in every area of our lives … even shoes. At Gucci’s Spring 2011 Menswear show all the attention focused on footwear, namely slip on loafers. With a timeless and elegant approach, these “Made in Italy by Gucci ” slip– ons work extremely well for both a chillaxed weekend look as they do as part of a tailored suit finish, adding panache and bring a vintage appeal to your overall image. Slip out and get you some slip on!Trend 10: Men Who Are Men
Ben Hill – Super Masculine Male Model
Just like the womenswear industry is slowly turning against anorexic and overly thin representations of the female body, a similar movement is happening in the men’s arena. In 2011, we predict that real men, not boys, will dominate the male modelling business. Why? Well, it’s all part of the swing away from the metrosexual and boyish/childish representation of male-dom and we applaud the return to strong examples of masculinity.
Remember, when well-coifed celebrities such as David Beckham and Ryan Seacrest led the face peels, exfoliates, and other manscaping movement of the early noughties?
Those days are long gone, with the death of the “metrosexual” whose pre-eminence was related to something less than macho. We’re now eager and open to embracing strong male icons who aren’t shy to come across as strongly male – not boorish mind you, but rough and ready, muscled, powerful and a tad bit dangerous yet gentlemanly and refined. The ‘masculine’ trend is even seeping into women fashion, lending clearly structured and clean cuts, neutral colors, to clothes that seem to have been borrowed from a woman’s boyfriend’s wardrobe, yet reinterpreted in a feminine way.
And the faces of masculine style in 2011? Here they are in all their manly glory. (If you didn’t have the foggiest, these men are currently considered the world’s top male super models! Now you know!)
The sun will come out again. I promise. Even though a good portion of the Northern Hemisphere is still grinding out what’s become a pretty obnoxious winter, Spring isn’t too far off. The sun’s annual crossing of the equator and subsequent beeline for our neck of the woods is almost upon us. So lighter fabrics, colors, and warm weather options are what you should be stocking up on. Here’s a few of the safer plays that aren’t too trendy, too pricey, and should get you ready for the rays produced by that large ball of fire in the sky. Once it finally reappears.
Also ready for your denim, right now.
White Bucks are classic but grey brings it down a welcomed notch. Use em’ as transition shoes between your heavier jeans into your lighter chinos, then once you get to summer don’t be afraid to wear them sockless. Easy to pair with standard spring lighter tones, or dark and bold colors for heading out at night.
The weather gets warm and everyone gives up on wool. But a wool tie around your neck is a laid back, casual texture that’ll partner up well with cotton and linen. If not wool or wool mix, try a knit or a linen silk blend . Just something that’s not iridescent silk. Textures can clash just like colors.
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Rule 3: The rule of shoes: Black is basic. Basic is boring
If you're wearing black, then by all means wear black shoes. But if you're wearing gray, blue, tan, or a combination thereof, brown shoes will almost always look more sophisticated. There's simply more range, from caramel to chestnut to chocolate. If you wear a belt, it should (sort of) match.
Rule 4: Thin with thin, thick with thick
Narrow lapel? Narrow tie. Thick lapel? Thick tie. This is why Howard Stern and Beth Ostrosky look good together. Arnold and Maria? It was never going to work.
(Emporio Armani suit, $1,400, select Emporio Armani botiques; Ike Behar shirt, $135, Bloomingdale's; Thomas Pink tie, $105, thomaspink.com ; tie bar, $100; hankerchief, $10; Emporio Armani shoes, $500, select Emporio Armani boutiques; Cole Haan Turino zip-top briefcase, $700, colehaan.com )
Rule 6: Vertical stripes make you look thinner
So guess how horizontal stripes make you look?
(Joseph Abboud Collection suit, $800, josephabboud.com ; Thomas Pink shirt, $195, thomaspink.com ; tie, $105; Cole Haan shoes, $250, colehaan.com )
Rule 7: Good tailoring is job one
Rule 8: Don't try to dazzle
Stick to basics for an interview to ensure that your qualifications are the focus. "Minimize patterns and loud colors," Andre Johnson says. Choose a classic tailored suit in blue or gray, and add a pop of color with the tie or pocket square.
Rule 9: Be ready for anything—or anyone
Always have your A game on, Johnson says; in today's market, you're networking even in your off-hours. "When people first see you, they put you in a box, so you want to make sure you never look sloppy," he says.
Rule 10: Have a go-to suit
"If you're second-guessing yourself before an interview about whether something is too casual or flashy, don't go for it," Johnson says. Always make sure you're comfortable, and know you can't go wrong in your best suit and tie.
Rule 11: When in doubt, go pink
Beige, yellow, and light-gray shirts should come with a warning label: "Not for use by men lighter than Dwayne Johnson." That doesn't mean yellow can't look good on, say, Tim Pawlenty, but pale folks need to be careful because muted colors can make them look ashen or sickly. If you have a healthy tan, then by all means wear what you want. But if it's mid-November and you haven't seen the sun since Labor Day, be wary of wearing anything off-white next to your face. A great go-to color? Pink. Yeah, we know: In junior high, some jock made fun of you for wearing a pink shirt, and now you're all scarred and emasculated over it. Grow up. Pink does exactly the opposite of beige: It makes a lighter-skinned guy take on a healthy glow, and it attracts women because it shows confidence.
Rule 12: Ties run button to button
A tie should cover your collar button and most of your top trouser button. Anything shorter makes you look like you work for NASA. Anything longer makes you look like former congressman Weiner.
(Calvin Klein Collection coat, $1,530, Calvin Klein Madison Avenue; DKNY suit, $600, 800-231-0884; Thomas Pink shirt, $185, thomaspink.com ; Calvin Klein tie, $45, calvinklein.com ; Frederique Constant watch, $2,750, frederique-constant.com ; Boss Black shoes, $395, 800-484-6267)
Rule 13: Dress up to go shopping
This may sound kind of silly, but trust us—what you wear while you shop impacts what you'll look like after you've shopped. It's impossible to tell what a suit really looks like when you're trying it on over your "I Hate LeBron" T-shirt. Similarly, it's impossible to tell how well an overcoat fits unless you're trying it on over a sport jacket. Wear a jacket, a white shirt, and a pair of formal shoes. Your tailor will thank you.
Rule 14: Square-toed shoes are just that
Perhaps you believe in always being prepared to kick a field goal no matter what the circumstances. In that case, opt for dress shoes with square toes. But assuming that you are not, in fact, Charlie Brown, the shoes that will last the longest and never go out of style should be a bit more rounded at the tip. Get the point?
Rule 15: Wear flip-flops only at home (okay—the beach, too)
What makes a man a man? He is strong. He is certain. He is prepared at any moment to meet a manly challenge with courage and fortitude. When a child wanders off the curb into traffic, when a date is hassled by a street tough, when a fire breaks out and someone needs rescuing, a man is there, fast and ready. He is not skipping cloppity-clop- clop down the street, squeezing his toes together so his flip-flops don't fall off.
Rule 16: Ties are for dressing up
Rule 17: A good suit can be dressed down
A suit's job is to make you look slimmer, fitter, stronger, and taller—that's the magic of the matching jacket and pants. If you have that going for you, who cares if you throw a casual shirt under the suit and pair it with some cool sneakers? Just avoid logos, numbers, ribbed tees, or anything you'd wear to bed.
Rule 18: Don't lace your wingtips like a sneaker
The crisscross lacing style you learned as a kid is fine for your canvas Chucks, not for a good pair of leather brogues. Try the more refined straight-bar lacing instead.
1 Thread the lace down through the pair of holes closest to the toe, making sure you have equal lengths of lace on each side.
2 Thread one end out through the next hole on the same side. Then string it across so it looks like a horizontal bar, and thread it in through the top of the opposite-side hole.
3 Lace it upward again, skipping one hole, and then pull the lace straight across. Continue this process, skipping one hole, all the way to the top.
4 Take the other end of the lace and repeat—thread it through the inside of the first free hole on the same side of the shoe. Continue all the way to the top.
Rule 19: Never match blazers with dress pants
In a blazer, white shirt, and dark jeans, you can go anywhere. You can push your kid on a swing. You can take a girl on a date. You can go on a job interview. You can drink at Le Cirque or do shots at a dive bar. You can even attend a wedding. A blazer is always safe when paired with dark jeans, gray flannels, or khakis. But DO NOT pair it with dress pants in a similar color; you'll look like you dressed in the dark.
(Tommy Hilfiger blazer, $325, tommy.com ; Hamilton Shirts shirt, $345, hamiltonshirts.com ; Gap jeans, $90, 800-427-7895; Thomas Pink hankerchief, $10, thomaspink.com ; Filson duffel, $225, 866-860-8906; Cole Haan shoes, $200, colehaan.com )
Rule 20: An ironed man is a wealthy man
Prosperous men don't wear wrinkled clothes. Until you make it, fake it.
1 Set up shop
Fill your iron with distilled water. (Don't use starch, which can damage the fibers in the shirt.) Mist the shirt with a spray bottle.
2 Go easy on the collar
Always iron the back of the collar, never the front, and avoid ironing the tips, to keep them from fraying.
3 Hit the shoulders and sleeves
Position each shoulder around the rounded edge of the board, and iron. Undo the sleeve button and spread out the cuff. Iron the inside here, too. Straighten each sleeve, smooth out any creases, and iron both sides.
4 Finish it off
Spread out the left side of the shirt's body, smooth the creases, and start ironing. Work your way to the right side. Air-dry the shirt on a hanger for 5 to 10 minutes, so the fabric sets.
Source: Simon Maloney, head of wholesale for Thomas Pink
Rule 22: Dress like you've made something of yourself in the world, even if you haven't
Don't try to look like you did when you were just starting out, Neil Strauss says. "Men stay stuck in their college style when it's no longer flattering for their age or body," he notes. "Let your wardrobe evolve with the times—and your title."
Rule 23: What you can't fix, feature
Strauss went through a long Rogaine period before deciding to shave his head. "I hid beneath hats," he says. "Once I made the decision to shave my head, I felt so much more self-assured."
Rule 24: When you find a look, go all in
Strauss had a buddy whose look was generic and nerdy. He had him grow his curly hair way out and wear thick black-framed glasses. "Women started treating him like a rock star because he stood out," Strauss says. Rule 25: Match your belt to your belt loops
Rule 26: Neither a sausage nor a sailboat be
(Denim and Supply Ralph Lauren—a new collection launching this month—shirt, $75; fleece, $100; jeans, $90; and belt, $125, ralphlauren.com ; Banana Republic scarf, $40, bananarepublic.com ; Converse by John Varvatos sneakers, $145, converse.com )
Rule 27: Make a mark with your own pen
Having an elegant pen at the ready makes you look sophisticated and prepared. But it does something else that we love—it cuts down on the germs you casually pick up from those scuzzy ballpoints the waitress gives you to sign the check. (By the way, better to risk overtipping than spend time doing division in your head. So round up.) Impress your companions and prevent the flu at the same time? Works for us.
Rule 28: No Texas tuxedos
If you ever find yourself pairing jeans with a matching denim shirt, ask yourself, "Am I about to get very dirty?" If you're slopping hogs or going on a date with Snooki, then by all means double up on the denim. Otherwise, it's silly. Denim shirt? Khaki pants.
Rule 29: Don't saw yourself in half
Speaking of gyms and clothing: If two men pass each other in the locker room, the most naked guy gets the right-of-way. I would hate to accidentally hit you in the shin with my privates.
Rule 32: Dark skies? Dark clothes
Rule 33: Keep a secret grooming stash
These three items will keep you looking and feeling good no matter what your day brings.
because a man shouldn't be shiny, no matter how much spotlight is thrown his way.
because chopping wood and fighting ninjas can dry out your mitts. After hours, you're a tough guy. At the office, you're smooth.
because certain proposals are better whispered than shouted.
Rule 34: Keep your t-shirt simple
Google-image George Clooney. Now do the same with Brad Pitt, Matt Damon, and Leo DiCaprio. You'll notice something interesting: There's not a single shot of any of these men wearing a T-shirt that says "Metallica" or "Go Badgers!" or "I'm with Stupid" with an arrow pointing to their penis. In almost every photo, if they're wearing a T-shirt, it's either white, black, or gray. Why? Because men look good in simple, form-fitting T-shirts. If you are wearing a logo, you'd better own the company. Or someone should be paying you to wear it. Dig?
Rule 35: Don't be a tucker
You could say there are two types of men, Tuckers and Untuckers. It's okay to be a Tucker on occasion, but tuck lightly—too many men shove their T-shirt into their pants in the hope that it will obscure their paunch. But such measures only accentuate one's Galifianakis-like girth. True style falls loosely at the waist, showing a bit of belt.
Rule 36: Tailor your shoulders like a soldier
Did Teddy Roosevelt charge up San Juan Hill in a baggy tee? Did those Navy SEALs who offed OBL wear oversize jackets to make themselves look more "street"? No. Soldiers, sailors, and Marines wear clothes that square off their shoulders, not round them out. There's no excess material to snag on some errant razor wire. That's you, chief. This goes double when choosing a leather jacket, because you can't change your mind and have it retailored. The jacket's shoulders should sit squarely on yours, and not droop over onto your arms. Make sure the sleeves aren't too long and that the bottom of the jacket hits just below your waistband. Good. Now go kill something.
(Andrew Marc jacket, $600, 888-424-6272; Rich in Clothing T-shirt, $50/pack of 3, 323-581-6000; Nudie Jeans Co. jeans, $225, nudiejeans.com ; Marc Anthony boots, $120, kohls.com ; Luis Morais necklace, $760, Bergdorf Goodman; David Yurman bracelet, $530, davidyurman.com )
Rule 37: A dad teaches style by example
Rule 38: Plan ahead for messes
Fresh shirts and pants for yourself and your spawn are essential if you're more than 10 minutes away from home. Trust us.
Rule 39: Load up on pockets
Rufus Griscom finds himself favoring items with plenty of pockets for kid-related gear—binkies, face wipes, whatever. For easy access, always keep the same items in the same pockets.
Rule 40: Pack a tool kit
A multitool with scissors is something you'll use every day. For example, cutting a few inches off the kids' straws in restaurants makes it easier for them to drink.
Rule 41: Play up your shoulders
Throw on a sweater that has shoulder details. If you're not blessed with Vin Diesel's delts, a little pattern at the base of your wings can give the illusion of extra width.
Rule 42: Your pants are too short if you can see your socks as you walk
(Calvin Klein sweater, $90, calvinklein.com ; Denim and Supply Ralph Lauren jeans, $125, available at Macy's; Tretorn sneakers, $65, 877-873-8676; Victorinox Swiss Army Original watch, $295, 800-442-2706; Luis Morais beaded bracelet, $225, and multicolored bracelet, $1,120, available at Bergdorf Goodman)
Rule 43: Your glasses should contrast with your face
The defining characteristic of "handsome" is symmetry: The better things seem to fit together, the better your chances of fitting together with someone else. Select eyewear that balances out the shape of your face. You'll eliminate a visual echo and bring your mug closer to the golden mean.
Rule 44: Pose in clothes that match your mug
If you know you're having your picture taken, plan ahead. Darker guys look best in whites and creams. People with olive skin look best in dark blue, dark green, black, and yellow. If your eyes are blue or green, wear a shirt that matches them. Brown eyes? Go with a color that complements your skin tone.
Rule 45: Kick the tires before you buy a cologne
The smell of a cologne when you first put it on is actually very different from what it will smell like an hour later, says Carlos Benaim, creator of some of the world's most successful fragrances, including Calvin Klein's Eternity for Men and the new YSL scent, L'Homme Libre. Most scents are divided into three "notes," he explains, each a blend of oils and essences that react to your body's chemistry. The top note is the first, fleeting part of the fragrance. It comes and goes in 15 minutes. The middle note lasts about an hour, and the base note remains for the rest of the day. "It's important to test the fragrance on your own skin," Benaim says. Don't try too many at once. Instead, hit the fragrance counter first, sniff a few bottles to find a scent you like, and give it a squirt on your wrist. Do the rest of your shopping while your sample has time to evolve, and save your final decision until you're ready to leave the store.
Rule 46: Your luggage is heading to Mumbai
Which is a bummer, because you're just flying to Miami. Matching luggage is a waste, especially since the airline loses half of it anyway. But invest in one great-looking carry-on: A nice leather bag will scratch and burnish and age as you travel about. It will look great today; it will look better in 2021. Carry in it at least one full change of clothes that can go anywhere. Like, oh, a blue blazer, a white shirt, some dark jeans.
Rule 47: Look fitter instantly: Dress all in one color
A neutral hue, such as gray, black, olive, navy, or even white, will create a seamless line from head to toe, slimming you and making you look taller. Fuchsia, not so much.
(Calvin Klein zip up, $80, calvinklein.com ; Rich in Clothing T-shirt, $50/pack of 3, 323-581-6000; Stone Island pants, $275, stoneisland.com ; Raymond Weil Freelancer watch, $2,850; 800-227-7712, Will Leather Goods cuffs, $75/each, 541-434-6659; Luis Morais bracelet, $1,120, available at Bergdorf Goodman)
Rule 48: Pack jackets inside out
Rule 49: Toss the old stuff
Next, create a zone for each type of clothing ( jeans, shirts, suits) to easily locate everything and edit out duplicates. Finally, optimize your space by replacing bulky plastic hangers with slim, nonslip ones, and hang hooks on your door for belts and jackets.
Rule 51: If you haven't worn it in 3 years, you don't need it